As autumn approaches in Naha, the counter with six seats wel…
As autumn approaches in Naha, the counter with six seats welcomes you to the world of hassun. On a cloudy September day, the temperature still exceeds 27°C, and the air outside remains gentle. As I arrange the dishes on the counter before opening, the lighting captures a sheen, making the colors appear slightly deeper. The only sound is the knife striking the cutting board, while everything else is quiet. The night, poised between the remnants of summer and the onset of autumn, is perfectly suited for hassun. Hassun, the first plate of the evening. Hassun is a dish that presents a selection of seasonal small plates, serving as the gateway to the course. It does not immediately reveal the main attraction but awakens the palate with differences in aroma, temperature, and texture. As a creation of Naha's kaiseki cuisine, it incorporates the day's offerings from Okinawa's sea and mountains. On some days, a roll lightly coated in batter and deep-fried may accompany the dish. Inside, the savory essence of meat mingles with a fresh aroma, melting in warmth with each bite. A pinch of blue salt rests beside it, its edges softened to leave only a lingering aftertaste. The accompanying fruits or melons serve to gently cleanse the palate. The focus is on maintaining a pace in conversation rather than on ostentation. The beauty of hassun may lie in its reflection of the diner's mood. Whether one wishes to start lightly or transition from work, several small plates naturally help to regulate one's breathing. For both business meetings and solitary sake enjoyment, the 6,600 yen chef's omakase creates a balanced mid-course. For those seeking the serene atmosphere typical of Kume's kaiseki, a night centered around the 6,600 yen chef's omakase (seven dishes) is well-suited. The evening begins with hassun, followed by owanmono to elevate the temperature, and sashimi and grilled dishes to define the contours of the meal. With seven dishes, one can layer flavors without becoming overly heavy. There comes a moment deep within the counter when a steaming bowl is presented. As the lid is lifted, the aroma of dashi rises, momentarily narrowing the conversation. In the early autumn, the presence of coolness mingles with lingering warmth, making owanmono the most direct delivery. The cooking techniques learned in Kyoto are gentle, warming only the core. This approach remains unchanged even with Okinawan fish and island vegetables. While many come specifically for Okinawan sake, there is no insistence on strong pairings. A small pour is offered in a guinomi, allowing diners to decide which dish to pair it with on the spot. Some days call for chilled sake, while others may benefit from a slightly warmer temperature to align with the owan. For those who do not drink, fragrant teas and soft drinks are also available, ensuring that the flow of the evening remains uninterrupted. In business meetings, the pauses in conversation are crucial. If the dishes are too forward, the dialogue falters; if they are too restrained, the atmosphere loses its vitality. This balance is explored through the size of the dishes and the design of each bite. For solitary sake drinkers, the opposite holds true; the fewer the words, the more noticeable the subtle changes in hassun become. I believe the charm of Naha's counter-style kaiseki lies in this sense of distance. In Kume's evenings, the smallness of the seats creates a sense of space. We are open only for dinner, from 18:00 to 23:00 (last order at 22:00). The counter accommodates six seats, and there are two private rooms, each seating up to four. Rather than a lively gathering, we cater to those who prefer a more intimate dining experience. Some choose a private room for special occasions in Naha, while others enjoy a quiet evening at the counter during their travels. Located in Kume, Naha, it is about a nine-minute walk from Asahibashi Station, in an area where the city's lights settle a bit. On cloudy days, the colors along the path to the restaurant become balanced, easing one's mind. Upon opening the door, the wooden counter stands straight, and the lighting is low. Some guests take a deep breath after being seated. Reservations can be made 24 hours a day through TableCheck, which also offers multilingual support. For international guests, we provide an English menu and a Traditional Chinese menu, minimizing any language concerns. Payments can be made with overseas-issued cards, allowing for a seamless integration into your travel plans. We are happy to answer your inquiries. Some may ask if it is acceptable to decide on the course upon arrival. On days when there is availability, it is possible to discuss the chef's omakase options of five, seven, or nine dishes after arriving. If unsure, reserving the 6,600 yen (seven dishes) option allows for flexibility in dining choices. Many also inquire about parking availability. We do not have a dedicated parking lot. However, there are several paid coin parking options within walking distance. If using the Yui Rail, it is about a nine-minute walk from Asahibashi Station, a distance that is easy to navigate in the evening. Some ask if it is possible to visit from abroad. We have staff who can assist with basic English inquiries, and we offer English and Traditional Chinese menus. TableCheck reservations are multilingual, making it easier for those searching for a Naha Japanese restaurant. If you have dietary restrictions or allergies, it would be helpful to note them when making your reservation. In September evenings, while the pace of summer still lingers, the colors of the dishes begin to lean towards autumn. There are days when the boundary is reflected in the small plates of hassun. If there is a particular dish that piques your interest, please mention "I look forward to enjoying the hassun" when making your reservation. This will ensure a slightly more attentive preparation of your seating. About Wa Banshaku Mine 📍 1-7-21 Akamine Building 1F 102, Kume, Naha City, Okinawa (approximately a 9-minute walk from Asahibashi Station on the Yui Rail) 🕒 Business hours: 18:00 to 23:00 (last order at 22:00) / Closed on Sundays and public holidays 🍶 Creative kaiseki cuisine and sake / Chef's omakase 5,500 yen (five dishes), 6,600 yen (seven dishes), 7,700 yen (nine dishes) 🏮 Counter seating for six / Two private rooms (each accommodating up to four) / Ideal for intimate business meetings, anniversaries, or a quiet night during your travels 🌏 English and Traditional Chinese menus available / Overseas-issued cards accepted / 24-hour online reservations through TableCheck ✨ Inamine Seigo — trained in Kyoto-Gion, Tokyo, and Shizuoka, now in Okinawa For reservations, please contact TableCheck or call 098-975-5673.