In September in Naha, between a hassun and a glass at the counter
On the morning of September 16th, Wednesday, the sky is clear. The temperature is 25.8°C, and even as the sun sets, the remnants of summer linger on the skin. In the preparation kitchen, the sound of checking the oil temperature resonates softly, while the cloth used to wipe the dishes moves busily. As I think of the dish to be placed at the entrance tonight, the choice of sake naturally comes to mind. This evening, I will share the story of a hassun meant for those who sit quietly alone. The hassun, the entrance to the night, gathers the season in fingertip-sized portions The hassun is a plate that combines several small seasonal dishes, serving as the entrance to the night. There is no grand centerpiece; instead, the temperature, aroma, and the rounded edges of salt create the flow of the evening. September marks the onset of autumn. It is designed to not preempt the coolness too much while allowing the lingering warmth to remain. The dish in the photograph expresses this "boundary" through deep-fried items. Wrapped beneath a thin batter are the flavors of meat and a green aroma. By aligning the thickness with a knife and changing the order of cooking, the way it breaks apart when bitten changes. The delicacy learned in Kyoto does not manifest in flamboyance but rather in the tranquility that follows the meal. It pairs well with the lightness of the night breeze in Naha. Those who enjoy a drink with this dish tend to slow their pace a little. Before long, both conversation and voices become calm. Such beginnings are well-suited to the counter. A quiet course flow for solo dining Some may open the door for the first time while searching for "Naha counter Japanese cuisine." The counter has six seats. Due to the proximity of the backs, the atmosphere is surprisingly quiet. On evenings of solo drinking, the pace of eating and the temperature of drinking belong to the individual. The side serving is careful not to rush. Among the chef's recommendations, the Wabanshaku 5500 Course with five dishes is just right for a solitary night. With fewer items, the contours of each dish stand out more clearly. Hassun, sashimi, owanmono, grilled and deep-fried dishes, leading to a sweet finish. Within this flow that does not tire the palate, the flavors of Okinawan fish and mountain aromas change day by day. There are moments when a steaming bowl is presented from the back of the counter. The aroma reaches first at a hand's distance, followed by the warmth touching the tongue. A little sake is added. Some may find it surprising that Okinawa has sake, but we have a proper selection that complements the evening's dishes. Rather than overwhelming with strong aromas, it leaves room for the dish's nuances. For those who do not drink, we can also pair fragrant teas or soft drinks. The label of a quiet adult establishment is not just for the sake of keeping voices down; it is also due to such thoughtful design. Turning into a back alley in Kume, towards the light of the night The location is Kume in Naha. It is about a 9-minute walk from Asahibashi Station, making it conveniently accessible after sightseeing or on a business night. Upon entering, you will find the counter and two private rooms for up to four people each. Whether you wish to maintain conversation during a business meeting or enjoy a calm anniversary dinner, you can choose the character of your seating. We operate only in the evening from 18:00. Rather than stopping by for a quick drink late at night, it is more fitting to start leisurely in the evening and finish before the food cools down completely. While not overly formal as a Kume kaiseki, we ensure that the aroma of the dishes and dashi is just right. The dress code is not strict, but it would be appreciated if strong perfumes are kept to a minimum, as they can clash with the aromas of the food. Reservations can be conveniently made through TableCheck. Available 24 hours a day, with multilingual displays, it is easy to check even while traveling. Due to limited seating, it is advisable to make reservations as soon as your plans are decided. A brief question deserves a brief answer People sometimes ask if they can come alone. With six seats at the counter, solo dining is a common sight. The quieter the night, the more at ease you should feel. There has been an increase in inquiries about whether overseas visitors can use the restaurant. Some come looking for "English menu Naha," and we can provide basic guidance in English. We also have a menu in Traditional Chinese. We accept overseas-issued cards, so travelers can settle their bills without haste. Some ask if they can come by car. We do not have a dedicated parking lot, but there are several paid coin parking options within walking distance. It is also realistic to visit using public transportation, as it is about a 9-minute walk from Asahibashi Station on the Yui Rail. The nights of September, still not fully cool, allow the chill of the dishes and the steam from the bowls to be distinctly felt. If you feel like starting with a hassun, please mention it when making your reservation. We will prepare a quiet drink for you at the counter and await your arrival. About Wa Banshaku Mine 📍 1-7-21 Akamine Building 1F 102, Kume, Naha City, Okinawa (approximately 9 minutes on foot from Asahibashi Station) 🕒 Operating hours: 18:00–23:00 (LO 22:00) / Closed on Sundays and public holidays 🍶 Creative Japanese cuisine and sake / Chef's recommendation 5,500 yen (5 dishes)・6,600 yen (7 dishes)・7,700 yen (9 dishes) 🏮 Counter seating for 6 / 2 private rooms (up to 4 people each) / Suitable for small business meetings, anniversaries, or a night while traveling 🌏 English / Traditional Chinese menus available / Overseas-issued cards accepted / 24-hour online reservations via TableCheck ✨ Seigo Inamine — After training in Kyoto-Gion, Tokyo, and Shizuoka, now in Okinawa For reservations, please use TableCheck or call 098-975-5673.