Autumn evenings at the Naha counter, a solo sake experience …
Autumn evenings at the Naha counter, a solo sake experience beginning with hassun, seating for six. On a clear night in September, as I turn down a narrow alley in Kume, the air outside remains in the 26°C range, while the inside of the restaurant is slightly cool. The dry sound of a knife meeting the cutting board briefly echoes from the back of the counter before coming to a stop. The aroma that rises before the steam is that of citrus peel being cut. Tonight's entrance begins with the hassun. Hassun: a small landscape that sets the stage for the evening. The hassun is a plate featuring several seasonal small dishes, served at the beginning of the course, with each bite offering a shift in temperature and aroma. The early hints of autumn do not announce themselves flamboyantly. Rather, they emerge gradually. For instance, the toasty fragrance of grilled items complements the acidity of citrus, while the saltiness of seafood is accompanied by the fresh aroma of mountain herbs. Although Okinawan ingredients can have strong outlines, when layered with the subtractive seasoning learned in Kyoto and the finesse of the knife work, they do not come across as harsh in the mouth. Receiving the hassun during a solo sake experience allows me to return to my own breath, contemplating the order in which to pick up my chopsticks. The brief moment of hesitation is delightful. The chef observes from across the counter, sometimes offering a word if necessary, or remaining silent. For those seeking creative Japanese cuisine in Naha, there may be some who have been waiting for such a beginning on a quiet evening. Omakase by the chef, 5,500 yen, a tightening of the night with five dishes. If dining alone, I would recommend starting with the omakase by the chef at 5,500 yen (five dishes in total). With fewer items, there is space to breathe. After finishing a dish, one can converse, admire the sake vessels, and take another sip. The construction of a leisurely evening unfolds. Some nights, after the hassun, sashimi and owanmono follow, while on other nights, the grilled dish takes center stage. The owanmono is a dish that immerses the season in a clear broth. As steam rises, the moment I slightly lift the lid of the bowl, the aroma flows towards me just once. The hand that presents this from the back of the counter moves with no unnecessary gestures. Consultations about Okinawan sake are conducted quietly. Some nights, a chilled sake sharpens the contours, while on other nights, a slightly warmed sake harmonizes with the warmth of the bowl. For those who cannot drink or are moderating, soft drinks are also available. The focus is not on matching the occasion to the alcohol but rather aligning with the flow of the dishes. There may be times during a journey when one wishes to savor the moment without carrying it into tomorrow. As a counter kaiseki restaurant in Naha, the limited seating proves beneficial on certain nights. The restaurant operates only in the evening, from 18:00 to 23:00 (last order at 22:00). The counter has six seats, and there are two private rooms, each accommodating up to four guests. The space is quiet, allowing conversations to naturally soften. It is easy to distinguish between dining solo at the counter and hosting guests in a private room. Those celebrating special occasions sometimes gently communicate at the time of reservation that they prefer the pace of the meal not to be too swift. Such words are appreciated. The location is in Kume, Naha, approximately a nine-minute walk from Asahibashi Station. Many travelers walk from nearby hotels. On breezy nights, a few minutes before entering the restaurant allows the body’s heat to dissipate, landing softly into the warmth of the bowl. Reservations via TableCheck are available 24 hours. The system accommodates English and traditional Chinese displays, making it convenient for those who wish to decide alongside their companions. We gently respond to your inquiries. Sometimes, I am asked whether reservations are better made by phone or online. TableCheck is available 24 hours, allowing decisions to be made while checking availability even during late-night business trips or while traveling. For detailed consultations, a phone call may be quicker on certain days. There are also inquiries about whether courses can be selected on the day. The basic offering is the omakase by the chef, with content varying based on the day’s ingredients. If there are budgetary considerations or preferences regarding portion sizes, a brief note at the time of reservation is welcome. We can coordinate the length of the evening with options of 5,500 yen (five dishes), 6,600 yen (seven dishes), or 7,700 yen (nine dishes). I am sometimes asked if it is possible to use the restaurant from overseas and whether English is understood. We provide menus in English and traditional Chinese, and basic guidance in English is also available. International credit cards are accepted. For those searching for a Naha Japanese restaurant where they can savor Okinawan ingredients at a quiet counter, we aim to ensure that language does not interfere with the culinary experience. There are frequent inquiries about whether there is a dedicated parking lot. We do not have a dedicated parking area. However, there are several paid coin parking options within walking distance, making it easy to arrive by public transport, as we are approximately a nine-minute walk from Asahibashi Station. September is a season when the hints of autumn only subtly appear at the edges of the dishes. The evening is set with the hassun, calmed with the owan, and played with the sake vessels. Due to the limited seating, the night fills quickly. If there are specific ingredients you wish to explore or if you desire a quiet time alone, please write a brief note in the reservation remarks. About Wa Banshaku Mine 📍 1-7-21 Akamine Building 1F 102, Kume, Naha, Okinawa (approximately a nine-minute walk from Asahibashi Station) 🕒 Operating hours: 18:00 to 23:00 (last order at 22:00) / Closed on Sundays and public holidays 🍶 Creative Japanese cuisine and sake / Omakase by the chef: 5,500 yen (five dishes), 6,600 yen (seven dishes), 7,700 yen (nine dishes) 🏮 Counter seating for six / Two private rooms (each accommodating four) / Suitable for small gatherings, anniversaries, and a night during your travels 🌏 English and traditional Chinese menus available / International credit cards accepted / 24-hour online reservations via TableCheck ✨ Seigo Inamine — After training in Kyoto-Gion, Tokyo, and Shizuoka, now in Okinawa. For reservations, please contact TableCheck or call 098-975-5673.