In Naha's night, savoring hassun alone, September at the six-seat counter.
In September's Naha, a night with just a few clouds lingering in the sky. Even with the air still around 27°C, a coolness greets you as you open the door. At the back of the counter, the steam from the dashi is checked, and the sound of warming bowls continues softly. An evening of solitary drinking is one where the aroma reaches the table before words do. Tonight begins with hassun. A small landscape of hassun placed at the entrance of the night. Hassun — a plate featuring several seasonal small dishes, serves as an entrance to the night. Though not a large dish, it reveals whether the day is leaning towards autumn or still holding onto the remnants of summer in its edge. Okinawan ingredients often have a clear outline shaped by the sunlight. This outline should not be overly refined with the knife. It should be thin, yet not vague. The chef mentions that what he learned in Kyoto was the skill to balance strength. For instance, the blue-scented vegetables can be softened with just the right amount of salt. The umami of seafood is gently brought forward with the right temperature of the simmering sauce. Since hassun is a small accumulation, if one technique stands out too much, the whole becomes noisy. After it enters the mouth, it is sufficient for the luster of the bowl and the shadow of the sake vessel to linger briefly. There is a moment when both travelers and local regulars align their breathing with the first bite. A night suited for solitary drinking, leaving space with five dishes. There are quiet nights in Naha when one seeks a counter and wishes to drink peacefully. A preliminary visit before a banquet, a night during a business trip, or a break before a day off when no one is rushing you. In such moments, the chef's omakase at 5,500 yen (five dishes) has just the right tempo. With fewer dishes, there is space left between each plate. A sip of sake, and then the anticipation for the next. When seated at the counter, the sound of the knife being set down is close. A dry moment as it meets the cutting board, followed by the sound of water. The low resonance when placing a bowl as its base touches the wood. While Okinawan sake often surprises, it does not rely on the rarity of the brand. By simply adjusting the temperature to match the dish, the same sake reveals different expressions. Some days it is chilled to sharpen its outline, while other nights it is warmed to enhance its richness. After the hassun, owanmono — a warm cup that elevates the aroma of the dashi arrives, slightly distancing the heat from outside. September is a season where coolness and remnants coexist. Just alternating between a cold dish and a warm bowl, one can feel the temperature within the body being balanced. A sip meant for savoring, not for overindulgence. Non-alcoholic options and soft drinks are also available for those who wish to build their night around aromas and dashi. A quiet reservation entrance from the alley of Kume. The restaurant is located in Kume, Naha. About a nine-minute walk from Asahibashi Station, the night path is surprisingly quick. Open from 18:00 to 23:00 (LO 22:00), it operates only in the evening. There are six counter seats and two private rooms, each accommodating up to four guests. The layout is suited for intimate conversations rather than large gatherings. For those seeking a private room in Naha for business meetings, the distance allows for comfortable conversation. Reservations can be made through TableCheck. It operates 24 hours and supports multiple languages, making it easy to input from places with time differences. The courses include the chef's omakase of five, seven, or nine dishes. The content is arranged based on the day's ingredients. Rather than pushing a fixed "signature dish," it is about how to present the sea and mountains of tonight. This reflects the restaurant's character. Whether dining alone at the counter, celebrating an anniversary in a private room, or enjoying a quiet dinner during a journey, all proceed at the same pace, ensuring a tranquil atmosphere. We will answer any concerns you may have. There are times when I am asked if one can dine alone. With six seats at the counter, it feels natural for solo diners. Conversation is only as much as needed. If it is a night to drink quietly, even more so. There has been an increase in inquiries about making reservations from overseas. TableCheck supports multilingual displays. For those looking for an English menu in Naha, we also have an English menu available and can provide basic guidance in English. Payments can be made with overseas-issued cards. I am also asked if there is parking available for those who wish to drive. Unfortunately, we do not have a dedicated parking lot. However, there are several paid coin parking options within walking distance. If using public transport, it is about a nine-minute walk from Asahibashi Station, a manageable distance for a night stroll. On nights when the moon peeks through the gaps in the clouds, the hassun takes on a hint of autumn. If you sense the presence of the season, please mention it when making a reservation. We will wait with the temperature of the seat slightly adjusted. About Wa Banshaku Mine 📍 1-7-21 Akamine Building 1F 102, Kume, Naha City, Okinawa (approximately a 9-minute walk from Asahibashi Station) 🕒 Open from 18:00 to 23:00 (LO 22:00) / Closed on Sundays and public holidays 🍶 Creative Japanese cuisine and sake / Chef's omakase 5,500 yen (five dishes), 6,600 yen (seven dishes), 7,700 yen (nine dishes) 🏮 Six counter seats / Two private rooms (each accommodating up to four) / Suitable for small business meetings, anniversaries, and quiet nights during travels 🌏 English / Traditional Chinese menus available / Overseas-issued cards accepted / 24-hour online reservations via TableCheck ✨ Seigo Inamine — After training in Kyoto-Gion, Tokyo, and Shizuoka, now in Okinawa. For reservations, please contact TableCheck or call 098-975-5673.