In Naha's evening, the aroma of autumn fills the earthen pot…
In Naha's evening, the aroma of autumn fills the earthen pot with squid and corn rice, featuring a total of seven dishes. In September's Naha, the sky is scattered with clouds. Even at 4 PM, the lingering warmth of 29.77°C remains, and the alleys of Kume seem to breathe slowly. The only sound that resonates dryly is the knife touching the small body of the squid on the preparation table. Tonight is a day when I wish to make the steam that rises upon opening the earthen pot a part of the course. At the entrance of autumn, it is not the vibrant colors but the layers of aroma that speak. The contours of autumn rise with the steam from the earthen pot. The earthen pot rice prepared for this season features squid and corn. The sweetness of the plump flesh and the fragrant popping of the kernels infuse the rice. In the few minutes after turning off the heat, when droplets of water accumulate on the lid's inner side, the atmosphere is at its quietest and strongest. The aroma that wafts gently across the counter can slow the pace of conversation, perhaps due to the power of such a pot. Squid becomes tough if overcooked. A brief heating leaves only the core of tenderness. This evening, I adjust the sense of heat learned in Kyoto to match the humidity and air of Okinawa. The green garnish sprinkled at the end brings autumn with a delay. It is a bowl where the remnants of summer and the presence of the next season coexist in the same vessel. A dish I wish to place in the "mid-course" of the chef's selection at 6,600 yen. This bowl from the earthen pot is not heavy yet leaves a deep impression. Therefore, placing it from the mid to late part of the chef's selection at 6,600 yen aligns the flow of the evening. Awakening the palate with a small appetizer, confirming the sea's temperature with sashimi, and layering the aroma of fire with grilled dishes. As we move towards the earthen pot, the pace of eating slows just a little. It is not about hurrying, but rather, one cannot hurry. The lid of the earthen pot is lifted smoothly at the back of the counter, and steam rises. At that moment, the sounds within the restaurant may thin out. The chef's swift yet unhurried movements with the ladle create a calm atmosphere. On some days, a sake that is not too cold pairs well. For those seeking Okinawan sake, I will help select one that does not overpower the dish, considering the shape of the cup as well. For those who cannot drink, fragrant tea or soft drinks are also available. There are nights when one wishes to quiet the depths of the stomach while on a journey. In Naha, it is not about the flamboyance of creative Japanese cuisine but rather a time to savor the "difference" in the sweetness of rice and the tenderness of squid. If used for business meetings, a sequence of dishes that does not require excessive words is preferable. On anniversaries, I sometimes wish that the focus is not on the dishes but on the breath of the moment. The distance of six counter seats on a Kume night. The restaurant is open only at night, from 18:00 to 23:00. Just a few steps from the entrance, the counter is visible, with only six seats available. Those who come seeking counter-style Japanese cuisine in Naha often remark that it is "closer than expected." It is not so much that the dishes are close, but rather that the hands are near. The sound of the knife, the steam from the dashi, the actions of pulling the dishes. There are days when this closeness is calming, and days when a private room is more suitable. There are two private rooms, each accommodating up to four guests. Many inquiries for private rooms in Naha are for business meetings, but to ensure that the conversation is not interrupted by the dishes, I sometimes create a slightly wider rhythm between the number of plates and their serving. Conversely, if someone expresses a desire to "experience a flow similar to Okinawa kaiseki for one night during their travels," I will pay careful attention to the arrangement of the hassun and owanmono. The hassun is a plate featuring several seasonal small dishes, serving as an entrance to the evening. The owanmono is a warm soup bowl that carries the aroma of the dashi. Even without understanding the words, there are parts that can be conveyed through steam and fragrance. Reservations can be conveniently made through TableCheck. It offers multilingual displays, allowing you to make arrangements even from distant time zones. Approximately a nine-minute walk from Asahibashi Station, take a leisurely stroll through Kume's streets to align your body with the evening's pace before taking your seat. I will speak briefly about any concerns you may have. I am often asked if the restaurant can be used by travelers from abroad. We have English and Traditional Chinese menus available. The staff can provide basic guidance in English. Detailed explanations of ingredients will be given slowly, to the best of our ability. There are also inquiries about whether the course content is the same each time. The chef's selection is structured into three courses of five, seven, or nine dishes, but the content changes based on the day's ingredients and the season. The earthen pot rice, as seen in the photos, also changes expression with the substitution of ingredients. If there are specific ingredients you are curious about, please mention them when making your reservation. I am often asked if there is parking available for those who wish to drive. Unfortunately, we do not have a dedicated parking lot. However, there are several paid coin parking options within walking distance, which you may use. If you take the Yui Rail, it is about a nine-minute walk from Asahibashi Station. On rainy days, take slightly smaller steps from the station. The steam that rises when opening the lid of the earthen pot is best experienced at the table rather than in photographs. It enters at the evening's temperature and departs softened by the warmth of the bowl. If you leave a note in the remarks section of TableCheck saying, "I am curious about the earthen pot rice," I will consider the closest possible form within the flow of the season. About Wa Banshaku Mine 📍 1-7-21 Akamine Building 1F 102, Kume, Naha City, Okinawa (approximately a 9-minute walk from Asahibashi Station) 🕒 Open: 18:00–23:00 (LO 22:00) / Closed: Sundays and public holidays 🍶 Creative Japanese cuisine and sake / Chef's selection 5,500 yen (5 dishes)・6,600 yen (7 dishes)・7,700 yen (9 dishes) 🏮 6 counter seats / 2 private rooms (up to 4 guests each) / Suitable for small business meetings, anniversaries, and a night during your travels 🌏 English / Traditional Chinese menus available / International cards accepted / 24-hour online reservations via TableCheck ✨ Seigo Inamine — After training in Kyoto-Gion, Tokyo, and Shizuoka, now in Okinawa. For reservations, please contact TableCheck or call 098-975-5673.