An evening savoring the early autumn at Kume's kappo — the chef's selection of 7 dishes in the middle of the night
On an October morning, with a slightly cloudy sky and a warmth of 27.95°C. By the time the sun sets and the doors of the restaurant open, a hint of shadow begins to mix with the same air. As the dishes are arranged on the counter, my hands check the texture of today’s fish. The entrance to autumn quietly announces itself through fragrance and temperature. Tonight, we layer the ingredients of "hashiri" with the tranquility of Naha's night. The entrance to autumn, from the contours of fragrance The early autumn is characterized not by flamboyant protagonists, but by fragrant contours. The aroma that rises when mushrooms are grilled, or the steam that gently escapes when the lid of the owanmono is lifted, brings with it the end of summer. Okinawa still holds onto warmth, with many days suitable for short sleeves. Yet, when the temperature of the dashi is slightly raised, one can feel a calming sensation deep within the body. The owanmono features a clear dashi with a seasonal ingredient, constructed so that the fragrance follows after the first taste. With the fundamentals learned in Kyoto as the core, I decide on the fish and mountain ingredients from Okinawa based on the day’s expressions. Autumn is a season where the precision of the knife changes. The direction of the fibers, the softness of the fat, and the time exposed to heat. The subtle adjustments accumulate, creating a singular breath within the dish. The chef's selection at 6,600 yen — a mid-evening portrayal with 7 dishes For those visiting Naha for the first time, as well as regulars, October's chef's selection of 6,600 yen for a total of 7 dishes is just right. Not too light, nor too heavy. As we progress through the sashimi, owanmono, and grilled dishes, the shadows of the season gradually deepen. The hassun also serves as a plate to prepare for the evening's entrance. Hassun — a collection of seasonal small plates arranged like a bonsai. Not only the strength of flavors but also the textures, temperatures, and heights of fragrance are harmonized. For instance, the sashimi. The fish from Okinawa's seas can have a bright texture, with a light sensation against the teeth on certain days. Without overpowering it with strong condiments, and with a modest placement of soy sauce, the sweetness of the fish takes precedence. In the back of the counter, the sound of the chef placing the knife resonates softly as he picks up the next dish. The brevity of this interval becomes the restaurant's breath. When pairing with sake, it is enjoyable not to limit oneself to cold sake alone in early autumn, but to embrace a range of temperatures. Without needing to set up a full sake pairing, simply leaning towards a slightly warm kan before and after the owanmono can sometimes reveal the umami of the dashi in a rounded manner. For those who are not fond of alcohol, non-alcoholic options and tea are available. Warm, cold, and aromatic choices can be quietly arranged within the flow of the meal. The distance of the 6 counter seats, the spaciousness of the private rooms The restaurant is open only at night, from 18:00 to 23:00. Turning into the alley of Kume in Naha and opening the door, the limited number of seats directly contributes to the density of the atmosphere. The counter has 6 seats. The sounds and steam from the finishing touches reach you at a distance that does not overwhelm. For those coming alone for a drink, it is a night where there is no rush for conversation. It is perfectly fine to quietly enjoy your meal and exchange just a word at the end. For business meetings in Naha, the two private rooms provide a calm atmosphere. Each accommodates up to 4 guests. On a night when there are things to discuss, it can be helpful if the dishes do not overshadow the conversation. Under indirect lighting, the luster of the dishes appears slightly brighter. The same can be said for anniversary dinners, where many seem to remember the moments spent eating together more than the lively celebrations. Reservations can be made through TableCheck. Available 24 hours, with language options, making it easy to secure a spot even during travel planning. For overseas guests searching for a Naha Japanese restaurant, the limited seating means it is wise to secure your reservation early once plans are set. Common questions, briefly addressed I am often asked if courses can be chosen on the day. Depending on availability, the basic approach is to select either 5, 7, or 9 dishes at the time of reservation. The content may change based on the day’s ingredients, so if there are any disliked ingredients or allergies, please mention them in the reservation notes. Adjustments will be made as much as possible. Many also inquire if they can come by car and if there is parking available. There is no dedicated parking. However, there are several paid coin parking lots within walking distance. If using the Yui Rail, it is about a 9-minute walk from Asahibashi Station. On a night of dining, having your return plans arranged in advance can ease the mind. I am also asked if I can bring friends from abroad and if English is spoken. We provide menus in English and Traditional Chinese. The staff can handle basic English communication, and overseas-issued cards are accepted. It is suited for a night where you wish to proceed while confirming dish names and ingredients rather than delving into nuanced discussions. Even in the warm October, the presence of steam from the owan changes the contours of the night. The early autumn is fleeting, so if there are specific ingredients you are interested in, please add a note with your seasonal preferences when making your reservation. It is a small restaurant with limited seating. Enjoy a quiet moment within the dishes. About Wa Banshaku Mine 📍 1-7-21 Akamine Building 1F 102, Kume, Naha City, Okinawa (approximately 9 minutes on foot from Asahibashi Station on the Yui Rail) 🕒 Open: 18:00 to 23:00 (Last Order 22:00) / Closed: Sundays and public holidays 🍶 Creative Japanese cuisine and sake / Chef's selection 5,500 yen (5 dishes)・6,600 yen (7 dishes)・7,700 yen (9 dishes) 🏮 6 counter seats / 2 private rooms (each accommodating up to 4 guests) / Suitable for small business meetings, anniversaries, or a night during your travels 🌏 English / Traditional Chinese menus available / Overseas-issued cards accepted / 24-hour online reservations via TableCheck ✨ Inamine Seigo — After training in Kyoto-Gion, Tokyo, and Shizuoka, now in Okinawa For reservations, please contact TableCheck or call 098-975-5673.